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April 11, 2000 We are currently in the Red
Sea; we just entered this morning through the 'Gate of Tears', and have
said goodbye to the wonderful Indian Ocean. We had wonderful weather in it
the whole time, great passages and clear skies. We sighted Africa today,
and there are lots of ships. In fact, at about six this evening we had a
really close encounter, way too close. We didn't even see the ship until
it was about a quarter of a mile away and we could make out every detail.
It was a huge tanker, steaming along. Very scary.
Our next port is in northern Eritrea, which is
supposed to be a great place, as these countries go. Africa! We just came
from Aden, Yemen on the Arabian Peninsula. On the whole the people were
the most friendly we have seen at least since Thailand, although some of
the men would try to rip us off on account of our skin, tourist skin.
Yemen is almost all Muslim, so we heard the mosques at all hours. The
women all dressed in black from head to toe, and many of them wore veils
over their heads with just little slits for the eyes. They must get
incredibly hot in this dry heat. The area around Aden is all desert, with
not even a cactus. Just dry bare rocks and little stone houses climbing
the sides of the valleys. Aden was a big town though, and somehow or other
had lots of fresh produce which we really stocked up on. The trip from the
Maldives to Aden was 18 days long. By the end we still had cabbage,
potatoes, onions and apples, but those first tomatoes on shore were
delicious. That passage from the Maldives was really pleasant though, good
wind for most of the time, although we did a bit too much motoring and we
were concerned about pirates (yes they do still exist, unfortunately!!) a
bit too much off Somalia.
OK, I've got to go for my watch. Bronwen
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