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New Zealand

 



December 16, 1998

We are in the Bay of Islands in New Zealand and enjoying it. It felt so good to get here after our eleven-day passage! We arrived on the third, early in the morning, but it feels like we have been here much longer; we pack so much more into days on land than days at sea. Our passage down was very calm and comfortable, the calmest we have had yet. We had to do quite a bit of motoring because of it, but we didn't run out of diesel, and better calm than stormy. We had two days of rough weather, uncomfortable seas, and 30 or so knots of wind. We made it safely though, with no gales and not one gear failure that I can remember. The only problem was that our propane (for cooking) ran out when we were about three days out, so we couldn't cook anything at all! Our meals consisted mainly of crackers, since we were out of bread (Mom was about to put some in the oven when the propane ran out). That made us even happier to reach land. Our first day here it poured with rain all day long, but we checked in and had a hot lunch with some Swiss cruising friends of ours aboard their boat Max, who had gotten in a few days ahead of us. We were so happy to not have to worry about some huge storm coming and giving us horrible weather, and to have that passage which has been looming over our heads since French Polynesia over with. Now it's only a matter of leaving here to head north again! We can't leave because of hurricanes for at least six months.

          It's much cooler than Tonga, more like the northwest's climate. Of course, it's spring, almost summer, here, so the weather is quite good. It changes all the time, normally the pattern is cloudy, sunny, cloudy, with very extreme weather, if they say 'rain expected' it pours all day. It's not at all humid any more, in fact, we are finding the air very dry, and are constantly having to put on moisturizer. The days are very long, like in the northwest in spring, and we are really enjoying them. Soon summer and the busy season here will start!

          We have found the people in smaller towns to be extremely friendly. We were eating at a restaurant in Paihia, just north of Opua, the tiny town we checked in at, when the waitress invited the five of us to visit her and her family at her house out of town because, she said, we seemed so nice. Then, the three of us kids were watching a movie in Kerikeri, another town, when the woman behind us who was there with a party of kids, gave us some of the popcorn and candy she was handing out to the other kids. We haven't had any trouble hitchhiking, there seems to be no problem getting a ride.

          A few days ago we took a bus down to Whangarei, the 'biggest town north of Auckland', to look at buying a car, check out the schools, and see if it seemed like a good place to stay for a few months of our stay here. The scenery on the drive down was very pastoral; we saw a few sheep, and masses of cows! Whangarei is a big, sprawling town with no real character. We got very tired walking around it, rushing here and there, during our three days there. We came away with a used, eight-seater van though, which is good. The restaurants were very nice, but there was nothing about the town that made us feel that it was the place we wanted to live, aside from the fact that the harbor is in town, so everything is convenient. Who knows were we'll be? We are thinking of putting ourselves into school for two months to see how well we are keeping up and make some friends, but schools here charge a huge overseas fee, about $1000 US per quarter for public schools so we really aren't sure. The grades are arranged all differently here, I am in eighth grade, but here I would be going into the second year of high school, after they finish their summer break and start a new school year. All of the schools here have uniforms and strict dress codes. Because of the overseas fee, and the fact that we have heard discipline is a real problem in some schools, we are considering starting the New Zealand Correspondence Course instead, which we have heard nothing but good about. Another problem with school is that we would be tied down for two months, we can't just leave school for a week whenever we want, so we wouldn't be able to do much traveling. Right now, our form of home school isn't working out, we are just about getting two years of vacation from school, so if we keep this up we will be way behind.

          In Whangarei, we also met up with some cruising friends of ours whom we met in Mexico and cruised with in French Polynesia. They were off the boat Freya, and were forced to abandon ship on the 28th when they were about 90 miles away from New Zealand. A helicopter lifted them off their boat when water coming in from broken hatches was a few inches above the floorboards, but they all made it safely with no serious injuries. It was very good to see them again and see how they were taking it. They didn't seem so upset about losing their boat and all of their things, they were just happy to be alive.

          The Bay of Islands is very beautiful, and so green! It's a lot like home. It's strange how after going through the tropics and the beautiful Pacific we find a place like home so beautiful! I guess just because it's so different. Just the other day we were looking through some pictures of the Pacific with the Maxes, and it was hard to believe that we had been to those beautiful places, we kept having to remind ourselves that we had actually been there! This climate is much nicer for doing things in, not too hot, but we definitely miss jumping overboard to swim in warm water any time we like. Everything here is so different. We are seeing the Californian style of palm tree with lots of palm fronds again; normal stores; a majority of white, English speaking people; lots of produce with huge heads of lettuce and perfect bananas; everything is unlike the tropics and more like home, and I don't know whether that is good or bad! One big problem they have here is sand flies; they are everywhere, biting us! We weren't bothered by bugs much in the Pacific, but here they are driving us crazy.

All of the cruisers we have been sailing with for the last few months have spread out, lots of them in Whangarei. Soon I bet we will be all by ourselves, and it's very sad to be splitting up with our friends among the crowd, especially the Maxes. With the cruising lifestyle we meet up with, and get really close with some cruisers, and then we have to split up! I hope everything is going well for you.

Bronwen

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