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The passage here was ok. Three days of light air
pretty much dead astern. We had the job poled out and were trucking at
about 4-5 kts. Making 110-130 per day. Then on the last 24 hrs we got a
typical pile of do do. Steady 25-30 for 24 hours. It got uncomfortable.
Sarah was nauseous, it was raining all day. The seas were up to 6-8 on
the quarter and the wind clocked around to the SSE so that we were close
reaching and doing the old slamming thing. Making great time though.
Double reef main and stays’l doing 7+. We ended up with a night
landfall. The moon was about half full but totally obstructed by cloud.
It was still raining and the waves were still sending big spray into the
cockpit. I called ahead on VHF to Rarotonga to see how it was for
entering in the dark. Got through to Rod on Glory Days who himself had
been helped in earlier in the week. He let us know that the lights were
not exactly as noted on the chart and that he would be there to help. I
told S to get some sleep if she could, I had had a nap, and kept checking
for some sign of land every 15 minutes. Like radar about then. Finally
at about 8 miles I could make out a glow, after letting my eyes adjust.
That was good to see. Then occasionally some lights from the island.
When we were down to 4 miles I woke Sarah. It was about 9 pm and the kids
were all zonked out. They had had a great day playing in their cabin.
Like a sick day from school. Bronwen never even dressed for the day. Lots
of reading and silly stuffed animal games. They were great. The wind was
still up, 30 steady, and the seas nasty. We gave Rod another call at
about 1 mile and got the sails down. Getting the main down was a bit of a
trial for the two of us, really just Sarah up at the mast. I was
steering, pretty concerned with the proximity of the reef. We found the
range markers and made the big left turn in. Rod stood on the pier waving
a flashlight so we could see the edge. It got pretty rolly and we were
tense with the howling wind and low light. We got inside and then started
organizing docklines and bumpers. Rod helped us out for about 45 min. It
was great to be there. Sar and I stayed up until 1 AM eating and
drinking.
The town has been great so far. The weather has
been stinky though, rain and cool every day since we arrived. Still lots
of fun though. The prices are great. Like home or cheaper. Gas is not,
$1.10 per gallon. But food is, eating out is cheaper. We went to a
restaurant, The Staircase, one night. It was fun. Unfortunately we had
the steak special which was rump steak, should have asked first and then
ordered something better. The owner of the building was the live music.
He had a good voice and played a very good accoustic guitar. He had a
keyboard accompaniment and played stuff like Julio Inglesias and then lots
of traditional Polynesian music. The minister of the CCIC church was
there, “The one with a cigarette and wine” said the waitress. It was good
fun. Four meals a few beers, several orange juices and desert for $97 NZ
and a free bottle of wine.
The first morning here we were met by Joseph, the
health inspector. He had a wreath of flowers on his head. He was great.
Very friendly and full of information on the island. When asked about
what restaurant he would recommend, he said that he wouldn’t. Then he
went on to say that the food at the restaurant was no different than the
food at the little kiosk places and the price was 2 times more just for
sitting down inside. and getting served. He has a good point. We talked
a great deal about the movie as well. His partner was into it. They had
a premier showing and the whole town would be there. It is a big deal.
And to us as well. We have been looking forward to a movie for ages. We
finally saw one last night, Lost in Space. It was wild. Very difficult
to focus on and hear for a long time. Very entertaining and very cheap,
$5 adult and $2.50 kids.
We went to the church service today, at the CCIC
church. It is the old missionary church. 65% of the islanders go there.
It was great. Mostly in Polynesian, with the odd bit in English,
welcoming the visitors for example. They started with a song, then passed
out certificates to the 20 or so parishioners that had attended a workshop
last week. Then another song then the collection, sermon, songs, goodbye
to visitors, very stern sermon, song. The singing was out of this world,
even better than the Catholics in Moorea. There were at least 3 parts.
The congregation sat according to their parts. But not all of each part
was together. There was a big group of men in the middle back, but then
soprano ladies were scattered on the sides. The one in front of us turned
her head partly towards the wall to spread the sound or something. She
was wailing full blast and hitting the notes perfectly. The effect was
marvelous. No accompanist but they were right on and had the rafters
rocking. It was very moving. Then after the service we were all invited,
very enthusiastically, to join the congregation for a cup of tea. Along
we went to the community building, where after a short speech we were
treated to a feast of snacks. From crepes to cakes and meats, and tea and
juice. The spokesperson said just a few words about why they were doing
it. Clearly it was for the guests, tourists, but not to make money, to be
kind. “As John Williams preached back in 18—there are three things to
learn, how to respect each other, how to love each other and how to make
peace. So we have invited you all here today to have a cup of tea with
us. The mamas have worked hard, as they do each week for this, and we
hope you enjoy.” What a great feeling. The true purpose of church, to
spread good will.
We are now hunkered down, still at the pier. It is
blowing hard up top and of course still raining. Chafe guards are all on
and we are down below listening to Van Morrison and writing letters. Well
four of us are, Douglas is playing Civilization. Maybe tomorrow will
clear and we can move to the other pier (med style) and get out and about
to play some golf and the like.
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