Gibraltar and Seville

October 2000-Sarah

We are in Gibraltar, busily doing pre-passage chores such as inspecting the mast from top down, (Neill likes that job) engine maintenance, fresh water pump fix (again), steering inspection.  Then there is the ton of little jobs that entail running around and making lots of phone calls chasing down spare parts, getting the life raft repacked etc..  We had high hopes for Gibraltar, being a gateway from the Atlantic to the Med, and certainly there are a couple of packed marinas, but we are finding it to be like an isolated island where people have a defeatist attitude - "no, you can't get that done; no, don't have that"  so we find ourselves driving up against a wall sometimes.  Sometimes we have to walk over to Spain - about a ten minute walk through the border from our boat - and we like the cultural change anyway.  Gibraltar is a fascinating little place for all that, with an incredibly ethnically diverse population - British, Hispanic, Jewish, African of various types - and they all seem fiercely proud of being Gibraltan.  Almost all are fairly anti-Spanish - including the Hispanics.  We are enjoying being tied up to a dock without many weather worries, and a shower with copious hot water nearby, a beautiful washing machine and a grocery store just around the corner.  There is a great gathering of yachties of all nations.  Many are just starting their circumnavigation (this makes us more than a little envious); all are very busy getting ready for the ocean.

 We took a road trip into Spain with another boat family - the Nanamuks - and walked over the boarder with our bags, cameras and  Nanamuk's 80-year old grandmother.  Seville was a wonderful city.  Quaint, cobbled streets and cafes and little restaurants everywhere, and friendly happy people.  Many streets were pedestrian only, so wonderfully clean and quiet, with lots of beautiful old architecture.  We packed three days to the maximum, having picnics in a couple of wonderful parks for lunch and seeing the sights.  Gran persevered throughout, including charging around on foot at first looking for a clean, economical place.  We could see spending a lot of time in Spain, as in Italy, NewZealand.....and some other places except war and disruption seem to have broken out since we left, we ARE getting a complex.  One evening in Seville Neill and I hauled ourselves back from the brink of oldfartdom.  I was actually in bed at 11 PM, and we were waffling about going to this nearby bar where we had heard they had a free flamenca show.  Suddenly we realized that here we were in a foreign city and it was only 11 PM.  That was close!!  It turns out the bar was a rambling, cosy thing with music going on in different areas. It was mostly students and no tourists (almost), and nobody besides ourselves over 30, but we had a great time.  And not only free flamenca dancing, but other acts with violin and guitar.  One amazing guitarist looked and acted EXACTLY like Mr. Bean. Great music and dancing, no cover and $1 beers.  They had volunteers from the audience come and do flamenca at the end, and these people really knew what they were doing.

Now here we are in Gib, all our chores are  done, everything is clean and tidy and we are waiting restlessly for parts as other boats leave in droves  for the Canaries.  The part finally came in yesterday afternoon so we were all set to leave today until we realized it was Friday, and due to superstition we never leave for a passage on a Friday.  Others do not seem to be aware of this risk as they head recklessly out.  Nanamuk is already half way there and listening to the radio net gives us very itchy feet.  We  feel well prepared for the passage however, and look forward to getting it going.  It should take 5-6 days to  get to the Canaries, then we will spend a couple of weeks there, then off to Antigua in the Carribbean - a further passage of three to four weeks - where we look forward to a great family reunion.  About six weeks from now we will be very ocean bound and hungry for mail and outside contact, so don't be shy to send us news of your lives, we really do love to hear about life back home!!

Love to all from all and happy fall - Sarah and the rest of Margarita Crew.
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