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Indian Ocean  



February 20, 2000-Sarah

Leaving Thailand was, as always, a mad scramble at the end.  The fridge needed a little maintenance, the tachometer was broken, we had to hunt down a replacement.  We were also calling Asiana Airlines on a twice daily basis to try to pressure for a settlement (only partially successful) of our lost bag claim - all Bronwen's curriculum for the next semester of correspondence 9th grade went missing.  Details like this become hard from a boat, it is a dinghy ride in to the beach on Au Chalong (Phuket) and timing is required as the beach is an unusable mud bog an hour either side of low tide.  Then you have to find a phone that works - not as easy as it sounds, then find someone that speaks English - only to be told to call back later!!!   The children and I went vegetable shopping - hired a tuk- tuk (a small, open three wheel taxi) while Neill went on hardware errands.  We visited this occasional outdoor market in neighbouring Rawai.  The vegetables were wonderful - plentiful and fresh, and using hand signals and a tiny bit of Thai we loaded up with all the vegetables and fruit we could carry, and heavily laden, rushed back to the boat to deposit our load out of the sun, and then dashed back to the beach to meet Neill for an elephant ride.  We couldn't resist having one before we left Thailand.  We opted for a quickie half hour one along a canal.  It was commercial no doubt, and the litter lining the trail was disheartening, but it was still an enormous amount of fun.  They are such fascinating beasts, and walking along the road with traffic going by was a kick.  Then we waded out into a lake and let them have a drink.   We finished the day off with fantastic Thai food yet again and our laundry was delivered by scooter to the restaurant.  

The next day we were supposed to leave and Bronwen and Emma and I got the dinghies on board and dismantled,  and lashed down everything that could move on deck, while Neill just had a little bit more of boat maintenance - the head (toilet) was blocked - don't want to head out to sea in those conditions.  Douglas was wasted in bed with an upset stomach and fever dreams.  Things for Neill took a little longer than expected - and this is not a pretty job.  One thing led to another, he completely rebuilt the innards of the toilet and flailed the hoses over the side of Margarita to remove the salt build up.  Five hours later we decided to stay another night instead of putting to sea at dusk after not making a passage in so long.  

We are over three days into it now and it is the calmest, kindest passage we have had.  We are not breaking any speed records, but there are no complaints from anybody.  We have done enough fast, wet passages lately. Going gently dead down wind with only mild rolling is OK.  Cooking is not a major battle and cursing is rare.  Neill and I can even sleep in the forepeak comfortably instead of wedged in by a leecloth in the main salon. School is progressing well.  The phosphorescence a couple of nights ago was remarkable - I've never seen it like that.  The wake of the boat was leaving a trail of neon white disco lights far behind and every now and then we would go through a school of something - flying fish or what I don't know that was like a light show.  We caught a beautiful Mahi Mahi that gave us two meals as well.  It put on a terrific fight in and out of the water, and we always feel a little sad - but it tasted great.  

 love to all from all here. -Sarah and the Margaritas


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