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Tobago

April 15, 2001- Bronwen



Hello. It's my turn again. This week was really quite a comparatively eventful week for us, especially with the slow pace that we have been moving at lately. Moving-wise we sailed from Grenada to Trinidad and then from Trinidad here, to Tobago. The original plan was to come straight here, but it was horrible slog. We were making only about three knots towards our goal at our maximum, we would have to tack upwind, and there was a current against us (it never feels like we have the current with us anymore). So, we decided that it was not meant to be and sailed to Trinidad. We were in a big hurry to get to Tobago though because we were looking forward to our reunion with Hoptoad, some old cruising friends whom we first met in San Diego, over three years ago. That may not be so long by standards at home, but they are one of the first families that we met on this trip. They are also from Washington, and have two kids on board, so it is a lot of fun to see them again. They had just finished their Atlantic crossing and we hadn't seen them since September. So, we were keen to get here quickly.  We have fairly similar plans from here on, so we will probably cross paths quite a bit. It is sort of strange to think back to the beginning of the trip, when I heard about their plans and thought what an incredibly time they would be out for. Now, three years later, we are doing exactly the same thing!

For the last few days, since we got here really, there has been a big swell coming down from the north. It bends around the land and finds its way into all of the anchorages here, so we have had some very rolly nights. One night in particular we were rolling back and forth like crazy, going to 15 degrees on either side, struggling our way around the boat. That night it really felt like we were becalmed at sea, with the big rolls and no motion. It was probably the rolliest (new word, I hope you like it) night that we have ever had. The next day we set out to leave. The channel out was a little bit challenging, one of the only even slightly difficult ones that we have had in a long time. So we made our way slowly out. Out on the reef there were some big curling breakers. Near the entrance some big waves started coming over the reef, scaring us. It was still really deep, 60 feet, but there they were all the same and there we were in our boat! Dad headed us up into the waves to take them bow on, and we rose up and then dropped down, clutching at rigging or whatever happened to be near both to keep our balance and release tension. It was quite frightening, the waves so big, so close to shore, threatening to break or knock us sideways. It all happened so quickly too, the waves following behind each other, having to both head into the waves and to head towards the channel. As each wave came, we were certain that this one would surely break, if not on us then just behind us. The last one was actually foaming at the top as we rose over it, and falling off the side we buried the bow. We got through with no dramas, although it was very intense. Dad compared it to leaving a beach with big surf in the dinghy, the same panic-y feeling, the same 'hold on, here we go!' In the boat though, there is much more at stake. Of course, maybe nothing would have happened even if they hit us on the beam. You never can tell.

Luckily the swell has calmed down now. We are currently in a biggish bay with a reasonable beach. The water is pretty murky, you can't even see your feet in waist-high water some of the time, but we go swimming anyhow with the other kids. Today is Easter, so we are all taking the day off. The sign on the church here said that mass was at 5:00 am, so we didn't quite make it for that unfortunately. We haven't been to Eater mass in a while; last year we were in the Red Sea, also with these same friends, and with no church anywhere near. Happy Easter anyways.

Bronwen
 

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